Surfing is more than a sport; it’s a culture, a lifestyle, and a language all its own. One of the terms you might hear in the surf community is “pitted.” For beginners and outsiders, this slang can be confusing. In this article, we’ll explore what getting “pitted” means in surfing, its significance, how it feels, and how you can experience it yourself.
Understanding Surfing Terminology
Common Surfing Terms
Surfing has a rich vocabulary. Terms like “gnarly,” “stoked,” “barrel,” and “wipeout” are commonplace in the surfing lexicon. Each term encapsulates a specific aspect of the surfing experience. “Pitted” is another such term, deeply rooted in the act of riding waves.
Definition of Pitted
To be “pitted” means to be deep inside the tube or barrel of a breaking wave. It’s one of the ultimate experiences in surfing, where the surfer is surrounded by the wave as it curls over them. This moment is both thrilling and challenging, requiring skill, timing, and courage.
The Experience of Getting Pitted
The Sensation
Getting pitted is an adrenaline rush. When you’re inside the barrel, you’re in a temporary, ever-changing tunnel of water. It’s loud, intense, and awe-inspiring. The light filters through the wave, creating a surreal and beautiful scene.
The Challenge
Achieving this position is not easy. It requires a deep understanding of wave dynamics, precise timing, and excellent board control. Many surfers spend years honing their skills to consistently get pitted.
Techniques for Getting Pitted
Reading the Waves
To get pitted, you must first understand how to read the waves. Look for waves that are hollow and break with enough force to form a barrel. Reef breaks and point breaks often produce the best barrels.
Positioning
Position yourself correctly in the lineup. Being too far out or too close to the shore can prevent you from catching the perfect wave. Stay patient and wait for the right moment.
Timing and Takeoff
Timing your takeoff is crucial. Paddle hard and get to your feet quickly. Aim for the critical section of the wave where it starts to pitch.
Staying Low
Once you’re inside the barrel, stay low to maintain balance and stability. Use your knees to absorb the wave’s energy and keep your eyes on the exit point.
Exiting the Barrel
Timing your exit is as important as entering. Look for the end of the barrel and aim to ride out before the wave closes out.
See Also: What Is a Kook in Surfing Terms
Equipment for Getting Pitted
- Choosing the Right Board: The type of surfboard you use can make a big difference. Shortboards are generally preferred for getting pitted due to their maneuverability and speed. However, some surfers use other types like fish or hybrid boards depending on the wave conditions.
- Fins and Leashes: Ensure your fins are appropriate for the conditions. A solid leash is essential to keep your board close if you wipe out.
- Wax and Traction Pads: Proper wax application and traction pads can help you maintain grip and control on your board.
Famous Spots for Getting Pitted
- Pipeline, Hawaii: Pipeline is arguably the most famous surf spot in the world for getting pitted. The powerful, hollow waves offer some of the best barrels.
- Teahupo’o, Tahiti: Teahupo’o is known for its heavy, glassy waves that form perfect barrels. It’s a challenging spot even for experienced surfers.
- Uluwatu, Bali: Uluwatu offers consistent barrels and is a favorite among surfers looking to get pitted.
- J-Bay, South Africa: Jeffreys Bay, or J-Bay, is famous for its long, fast waves that often produce excellent barrels.
The Culture of Getting Pitted
- The Surfer’s High: Getting pitted is often described as the ultimate “surfer’s high.” The rush of being inside a barrel is unparalleled and highly addictive.
- Community and Respect: Surfers who consistently get pitted earn respect within the community. It’s a mark of skill and bravery.
- Storytelling and Bragging Rights: Getting pitted often becomes a story to tell. Surfers share their experiences, creating a bond through shared adventures and close calls.
Safety Considerations
- Understanding Risks: Barrels can be dangerous. The powerful waves and shallow reefs pose significant risks. Understanding these risks is crucial.
- Using Safety Gear: Consider using helmets and impact vests in particularly hazardous conditions.
- Surfing with a Buddy: Surfing with a friend can increase safety. They can help in case of an accident and provide support.
Training for Getting Pitted
- Physical Conditioning: Strength, flexibility, and endurance are vital. Engage in cross-training activities like swimming, yoga, and strength training to stay in peak condition.
- Mental Preparation: Mental toughness is just as important as physical conditioning. Visualize your rides, stay calm under pressure, and build confidence through practice.
- Practice and Patience: Getting pitted consistently takes practice and patience. Spend time in the water, learn from each session, and stay committed to improving.
Inspirational Surfers Known for Getting Pitted
- Gerry Lopez: Gerry Lopez, also known as “Mr. Pipeline,” is renowned for his mastery of Pipeline’s barrels. His smooth style and fearless approach have inspired generations of surfers.
- Kelly Slater: Kelly Slater, an 11-time world champion, is famous for his ability to get pitted in various conditions around the world.
- Laird Hamilton: Laird Hamilton is known for pushing the boundaries of big wave surfing and getting pitted in some of the world’s most challenging waves.
Conclusion
Getting pitted is one of the most exhilarating experiences in surfing. It combines skill, bravery, and a deep connection with the ocean. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced surfer, understanding and striving for that perfect barrel ride can enhance your surfing journey. Keep practicing, stay safe, and enjoy the thrill of getting pitted.