Renowned American alpinist Steven Swenson has been honored with the esteemed 2024 President’s Award from the American Alpine Club in recognition of his exceptional achievements in the realm of climbing.
Reflecting on this distinguished accolade, Swenson expressed deep humility, stating, “Receiving such a prestigious award is truly humbling, and I am grateful for the unwavering support of my friends and family since I embarked on my climbing journey with the Boy Scouts in 1968 at the age of 14. I owe a debt of gratitude to all my climbing partners whose friendship and acts of kindness have played an integral role in any success I’ve achieved and in navigating challenging situations. My current focus is on maintaining and refining my climbing skills to the best of my ability, contributing to mountain communities in the places I have frequented, and nurturing my relationships with the remarkable individuals I have encountered along this transformative path.”
Swenson, originally from Seattle, commenced his climbing pursuits in the nearby Cascade Mountains. With a climbing career spanning over five decades, he has participated in more than twenty expeditions to South Asia, including notable ascents of K2 and Everest without supplemental oxygen. Notably, he was part of the award-winning team that claimed the 2012 Piolet d’Or for the first ascent of Saser Kangri II (7,518 m) and the 2020 Piolet d’Or for the inaugural ascent of Link Sar (7,041 m).
Following his retirement, Swenson has actively contributed to various nonprofit boards, leveraging his expertise in governance, fundraising, and strategic planning. In 2017, his book titled Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict was published by Mountaineers Books, earning a shortlist nomination for the 2017 Banff Mountain Literature Award. During winters, he ventures into the Canadian Rockies to tackle challenging ice routes, demonstrating a continued passion for the sport.