A select group of climbers reached the summit of Annapurna recently, with notable accomplishments by two women, Allie Pepper from Australia and Flor Cuenca from Peru, who achieved the feat without supplemental oxygen.
Assisted by Mikel (Mingtemba) Sherpa and Ngima Wangdak Sherpa, Pepper successfully summited after a grueling 16-hour climb from Camp 4 at 7,000 meters. However, concerns arose during her descent when her group paused at Camp 4 overnight, prolonging exposure to high altitude without bottled oxygen. This also necessitated a late descent through the avalanche-prone area from Camp 3 to Camp 2. Despite these challenges, Pepper’s tracker indicated a steady descent throughout the day, ultimately reaching Base Camp around 6 pm Nepal time.
Meanwhile, Cuenca quietly achieved her 10th 8,000-meter peak summit, doing so unassisted. Operating with minimal support, she has maintained a frugal approach to climbing, eschewing supplementary oxygen and Sherpa assistance. Her self-sufficient style involves carrying her own tent and supplies up and down the mountain, relying on outfitters’ logistics only until Base Camp.
Among other climbers, Domi Trastoy of Andorra successfully summited with supplementary oxygen from 7,400 meters, describing Annapurna as the most challenging peak he has tackled, even compared to Everest. However, David Nosas of Spain and Nelly Attar, climbing with Madison Mountaineering, had to turn back at 7,500 meters due to inadequate acclimatization. Trastoy and Nosas acknowledged the pressure to seize the first summit opportunity, as outfitters swiftly dismantle camps to move on to other mountains.
These expeditions underscore the enduring allure and inherent risks of high-altitude climbing, as climbers pursue their goals amidst the unforgiving terrain of the world’s highest peaks.