4 October 2024 — British-Nepali mountaineer Nimsdai “Nims” Purja has set three new world records within a remarkable span of five days, culminating with his summit of Shishapangma. On October 4, Purja, alongside renowned Nepali climber Mingma G and his rope-fixing team, reached the peak, marking a significant milestone in their quest to ascend all 14 of the world’s highest mountains without supplemental oxygen.
Purja has now become the fastest individual to scale all 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen, achieving this feat in just 2 years, 4 months, and 28 days. His record is particularly notable as it includes guiding clients throughout his journey. Additionally, he holds the unique distinction of being the only climber to complete the 14 peaks both with and without oxygen, accomplishing this in a total of 5 years, 5 months, and 12 days, from April 23, 2019, to October 4, 2024.
In a bid to further push the boundaries of mountaineering, Purja returned to Shishapangma on October 9 for a second summit attempt within five days, achieving a personal milestone of 50 summits of 8,000-meter peaks. He dedicated this landmark ascent to the United Kingdom, Nepal, the Gurkha community, and the United Kingdom Special Forces (UKSF).
Also reaching the summit on October 9 was former British Commando Tejan Gurung, known as TJ, who completed his own journey to conquer the 14 peaks in an impressive 2 years, 4 months, and 13 days. At just 29 years old, he has become the youngest male British climber to achieve this challenge.
Purja dedicated his record-breaking climbs to his family and to Anna Gutu and Mingmar Sherpa, both of whom tragically lost their lives in 2023 due to avalanches on Shishapangma. In Spring 2024, Purja and his Elite Exped team successfully rescued and repatriated Gutu and Sherpa, reuniting them with their families.
Reflecting on his achievements, Purja expressed deep gratitude, stating, “I know Anna would have told me to come back and finish the mountain we started together, to show the world resilience and determination and to give her and Mingmar a fitting tribute and legacy. These new world records are dedicated to them, my family, and my dear mum and dad, who both sadly died after 2019.”
He continued, “Thank you to everyone who has been on this journey with me since 2019. I am truly grateful for your love and support. You are all forever part of these summits and successes.”
“My mission has always been to raise the name of the Big Mountain communities, inspire people to believe in themselves and their dreams, and to work hard to achieve their new possible,” Purja added, underscoring his commitment to encouraging others in their pursuits.
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