Pakistan’s summer mountaineering season has commenced with a flurry of ambitious expeditions. Among the highlights are two teams pursuing alpine-style ascents on K2 and Nanga Parbat, while others focus on forging new routes up formidable 7,000-meter peaks.
One of the standout endeavors involves a Czech team’s renewed effort on Muchu Chhish, a daunting 7,453-meter peak in the Batura Muztagh range. This marks their fourth attempt on what is currently the highest unclimbed peak accessible to expeditions worldwide.
Details about the current Czech team remain sparse, although it includes Radoslav Groh and Zdenek Hak, both seasoned climbers known for their successful ascent of Cholatse’s new route in late 2023.
Muchu Chhish’s reputation for treacherous avalanche-prone slopes and a seemingly interminable summit ridge has stymied numerous elite teams over the years. Previous Czech attempts in 2020, 2021, and 2023, featuring varying team compositions each year, came close but fell short. Last year, climbers Pavel Korinek, Pavel Bem, Radoslav Groh, and Tomas Petrecek reached a challenging 7,200 meters but couldn’t breach the final ascent to 7,453 meters.
Meanwhile, in a separate endeavor southeast of Muchu Chhish, French climbers Mathieu Maynadier and the Ladevant brothers have established base camp at Pumari Chhish. Their strategy involves acclimatizing and setting caches before embarking on a new route up the formidable south face of the 7,492-meter peak, a goal requiring approximately three weeks to reach the central summit.
In quieter corners of the region, attention turns to David Klein and Marton Nagy from Hungary, tackling the 7,403-meter Istor-o-Nal in the Hindu Kush near the Afghan border. Communications challenges may limit updates from their expedition.
Elsewhere, teams such as Spain’s National Alpinists Team targeting K7, and recipients of the American Alpine Club’s Cutting-Edge Grant aiming for Yashkuk Sar and Ultar Sar, indicate a diverse spectrum of challenges this season. Russian climbers Ratmir Mukhametzyanov, Alexander Parfenov, and Alexey Sukharev seek funding to attempt the north face of The Ogre (Baintha Brakk I).
Lastly, Japanese climbers Kayuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima have begun their ascent along the Baltoro Glacier toward K2’s West Face, aiming for a new alpine-style route.
As the season progresses, these teams will navigate not only the physical demands of these peaks but also the logistical and environmental challenges inherent to such ambitious alpine endeavors in Pakistan’s rugged landscapes.